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with Brian AlleyPower Steering Adapted From
A 91 Chevy S-10
MOUNTING THE STEERING BOX
After the pulley was finished, and the customer vehicles parts
arrived it was back to work on paying jobs.
The next step was to mount the steering box. I spent about a
week off and on looking at it before even starting this project, and doing some
reading on the internet on other steering box installs. Seems the consensus is
that the box I am going to use will not fit in the frame of the samurai. Most
conversions I found used a toyota celica box, or one from an FJ type landcruiser
that mounts on the outside of the frame. those just were not an option for me.
Once decided it would fit, somehow, I went to work.
Using the mounting sleeves I had made up before, I removed the
old box and set the new one up in roughly the position I planned to mount it.
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Here are the two boxes laying on the floor. Big difference
between them in size, but it will fit. |
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Here is the box, sitting in position with the mounting sleeves
tacked in. First I mounted the top forward most sleeve, a notch was cut from the
frame to fit it partway down into the frame rail. Then the box was set in place
and snugged up against this sleeve. Next the lower forward sleeve notch was cut
and it was tacked in. then the rearmost mount hole was marked. I had previously
measured the distance from each of the other holes to this one, and using a
caliper I marked out on the frame a couple of arcs from the first two holes.
Where these two arcs cross is the center point for the third hole. It was
drilled out thru both sides 1" in diameter and the sleeve pushed thru and tacked
in place.
Once everything looked good, I pulled the box back out and
welded out the sleeve to frame. |
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Three shots of the box in its final living quarters. You can
also see the factory A/C bracket in place. All that was needed to use it was to
open the rear mounting hole that the old A/C comp used up to 7/16". No other
modification was needed to it. |
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Here is the most costly part of the project. I had misplaced
the factory coupling for the steering box, plus I didn't really want a rag joint
in there anyway. I bought a 3/4"Splined to 3/4" smooth u-joint coupling from the
dirt track racing shop. I did not really count the cost of this into the
conversion, because I sold the factory A/C comp and hose setup for a few dollars
more than the u-joint cost.
Yes, if you look close it is a tight fit past the oil filter
and engine mount. I am certain the filter will not come off without moving the
shaft out of the way. But it is no big deal for the yearly or so oil change the
trail rig gets. i knew starting out it was going to be close, and am prepared to
make an oil filter adapter/relocation unit if need be. |
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The pump is mounted, and the stock Samurai A/C belt is fitted
up. Yes, I used the stock belt, makes it easy to remember what the number is
when a replacement is needed. |
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The box, mounted and the belt tensioned. I purchased the small
turnbuckle from the hardware store, cost was $3.47. It was so much easier to do
than setup the lathe to singlepoint thread the small internal right and left
hand thread. You can just make out the mount for the turnbuckle in the second
pic. the bracket mounts to the two bolts on the cylinder head, and is threaded
to accept a bolt that was originally used to mount the pump to the 4.3L bracket.
The stock 91 S-10 hoses were used, just slight tweaking of the high pressure
hose was need. Cut off and shorten the return hose and they fit fine. Also note
in the lower left corner of the second pic is the rerouting of the lower part of
the radiator support. The corner of the radiator was moved slightly forward to
make room for the top cover of the box. |
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Here is the underside. amazingly the stock Samurai tierod end
is a match for the taper in the pitman arm.
So, there it is in a nutshell. How to fit full size GM steering parts on
your Samurai Any questions you can email me, I will try to respond as quickly as I can.
Brian. |
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