with Larry Harris
Model Kayla KingPetroworks
GRSII Install
After discovering some real trails at the first ZookiMelt I found I
wanted more crawlability!
One quick call to Rudy at Petroworks and my GRSII was
on the way. Waiting for the UPS person was terrible, I even asked my
wife to be sure to call me at work when the kit arrived. About a
week later I get the highly anticipated call from home, its here! So much
for working the rest of the day. Call the boss, "hey my Suzuki go
slow parts are here and I am going home". He even understood. The t -
case is
out of the truck in no time and on the bench. Dang, in a hurry forgot to
drain the oil. Big mess as I split the case. So I clean work surface and decide
to read the instructions. Off to the library. Great instructions, very
clear with good pictures for the guys. As you know pictures for the
men, written instructions for the women ;-)
This kit can be installed by anyone with average mechanical ability, a
factory service manual and patience. Read the instructions, did I say patience?
It will not take long and you will be much happier if you take your time
on this project. There are a lot of parts in there. You need to understand
the names, what they do, how the case comes apart and how it goes back
together. A Suzuki T-case is pretty forgiving, but why push your luck.
Follow the instructions, take your time to get the clearances correct and
your case will live a long happy life. The "Gear Reduction
System" kit is easy to install with only a few special tools such as
snap-ring pliers and gear pullers.
|
Torque Chart |
Parts List |
| Fastening Parts |
lb - ft |
|
Front case bolt
Center case bolt
Counter shaft lock plate bolt
Universal joint flange nut
Transfer mounting bracket bolt
Transfer mounting nut
Cross joint bolt and nut
Oil filler and drain plug |
9.5
- 16.5
9.5 - 16.5
7.0 - 12
80 - 108
13 - 20
18.5 - 25
17 - 21
26.5 - 39 |
1 - Input gear
1 - Low Output Gear
1 - Cluster Gear
1 - Shaft
2 - Bearings
2 - Washers
1 - Shim Pack
1 - "O" Ring
1 - Center Case Gasket
1 - Front Case Gasket
|
GRS-9006
GRS-9007
GRS-9008
29131-80050
29983-80050
29956-80050
GRS-9009
29975-80050
29525-80050
29535-80050 |
|
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|
1. Remove the transfer case from the Samurai.
Removal Tips:
 |
Shift the T-case to 4HI (saves digging around in there with a
screwdriver later) |
| Remove the T-case shift knob, boot and lever (Believe it or
not, the lever retainer is much more easily removed from below!)
Stuff a rag in the lever hole. |
| Undo speedo cable, 4WD switch connector, drive shafts, all
lower rubber mounting nuts EXCEPT one for the short arm, just
loosen it. |
| Remove short arm from the T-case and swing it out of the
way. |
| Lower the input side of the T-case first, and the case pretty
much falls right out.
|
|
 |
|
2. Using a pointed punch, uncrimp the large center
nuts on the input and rear output flange. Do not uncrimp the nut on the front output
flange as its removal isn't necessary.
Note: I used a 1/4 inch very sharp chisel that had been ground down
to fit the notch. |
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|
3. Remove the center nuts. |
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|
4. Remove the flanges, using a gear puller if
necessary. |
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|
5. With the speedo retaining bolt removed, pull out
the speedo gear cup with the speedo gear. This is very important as
the cases will not separate with the speedo gear in place.
Tip: This can be the toughest part of the entire process. I used
a large pair of channel locks to remove it. |
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|
6. Unscrew the 4WD switch from the front case and
remove the ball under it. |
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|
7. Unbolt the front case, leaving the front output
flange attached. Slide the front case off the shifting rods.
Tip: Put the bolts in to separate bags and label them, there are several
different lengths and they all must go back into the original position.
|
 |
|
8. Using a large screw driver, shift the transfer case
into 4WD-HI range to ease disassembly. Note the alignment of the
notches in the shifting rods indicating the 4WD-HI range. Tip: I found it easier to set the T-case in 4WD-HI before
removing the shifting lever.
|
 |
|
9. Remove the bolts holding the center case and rear
case together. By tapping on the rear case tabs and the output
shaft with a plastic hammer or wooden dowel, separate the center and
rear cases.
Tip: Put the bolts into separate bags and label them, there are several
different lengths and they all must go back into the original position.
|
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|
10. Tap out the input shaft assembly from the
center case. |
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|
11. Pull the bearings off the old input shaft. |
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|
12. Press the bearings onto the new G.R.S. input
shaft. Note how a flange can be conveniently used to stand the shaft
on end. Set the new input shaft assembly aside until later. |
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|
13. Remove the countershaft locking tab and tap the
counter shaft out of the center case. |
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|
14. ... releasing the counter gear, its caged
needle bearings, spacer and thrust washers. |
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|
15. With a pin punch, drive the split pins out of the
shifter forks. The forks will now slide on the shifting shafts. |
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|
16.Slide the 2wd / 4WD fork off the end of its shaft,
letting the 2WD / 4WD shifting collar clear the end of the output
shaft assembly and drop off the fork. |
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|
17. Tap the end of the output shaft assembly to ease it
out of the center case, while sliding the HI / LO fork off the end
of its shaft. |
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|
18. Remove the circlip on the end of the output shaft
assembly and pull off the 4wd coupler, taking care not to damage the
needle pilot bearing in the end of the shaft. |
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|
19. Remove the larger bearing clip, then pull off the
large bearing. |
 |
|
20. The thrust washer and HI range output gear
will now slide off the shaft. Reassembling the output shaft assembly
is the reverse of disassembling it, pressing on the pieces you
pulled off. Once again, an output flange can be used to stand the
shaft assembly on end. Tap the input shaft assembly into the center
case. To select the proper end shims for the input and output shaft
assemblies, first clean up any burrs in the bearing bores of the
rear case and apply a light coat of grease. This lets the rear
bearing slide into and out of the rear case more easily.
|
 |
|
21. Put the center and rear case halves together without
the gasket and without the counter gear assembly. Squeeze
them together so the bearings seat in their bores. Measure the gap
between the cases with a feeler gauge. Adjust the gap by adding or
subtracting end shims so that it is even, and between .014 and .018
in. when you torque the case bolts, the gasket will compress to.012.
This will leave .002 to .0067 clearance. Stick the final shims
determined in their bores in the rear case with grease so they do
not fall out.
|
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|
22. Photo shows both counter gear thrust
washers and end shims in place. Stick a counter gear thrust washer in place
in the rear case with grease. You should be able to turn the rear case
upside down and shake it without anything falling out. Now stick one counter
gear thrust washer in place, on its raised shoulder, in the center
case using grease. Slide the counter gear thrust washer in sideways,
engaging it with the input and output gears setting it on top of the
thrust washer. Slide the new counter gear shaft "O" ring end
first, through the counter gear and into the case bore until the slot
for the locking tab is just sticking out of the case. Rotate the shaft
to line up the slot with the hole for the retaining bolt. Install the
lock tab and bolt. Slide one of he new cage bearings over the end of the
shaft and into the counter gear. Next the spacer and finally , the
second needle bearing. Be sure to install the spacer between the
cage bearings.
|
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23. This photo shows the center case with the GRS gear set installed, ready to be covered by the rear case. Put the big
gasket onto the center case face. Put the rear case over the ends of
the shafts and into place, taking care not to knock the counter gear
thrust washer out of place. Tap the cases gently together. Put in the
bolts holding the cases together. Put the small gasket onto the front
case face. Bolt on the front case. Reinstall the 4WD ball and switch. Replace
the flanges and nuts.
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24. The transfer case is now ready to reinstall
in the vehicle. Fill with oil and try.
Fill With Oil Tips:
The transfer case holds 1 qt. of 75 -w-90 oil. To make filling
easier they have supplied 2 plastic plugs with the GRS II. When you
are ready to reinstall the transfer case in the vehicle try this
simple method to fill it:
| Push the small plug into the speedo cable hole. |
| Fill the case with about 1qt. of oil ( poor it into the shifter
hole) |
| Push the large plug into the shifter hole ( these plugs will keep
out the dirt and oil in while you position the transfer case onto
its mounts and attach the drive shafts.) |
| When you are finished, check the oil level with the vehicle
level. |
| Be sure the fill and drain plugs are secure. |
| Remove the plastic plugs, attach the speedo cable and replace the
shift lever. |
Install Tips:
| Raise output side of the tcase first and position the rubber
mounting studs back into the frame. |
| Rotate the input side of the case up against the floor. |
| Swing the short arm into position and thread the 4 bolts back
in. |
| Reattach driveshafts, speedo cable, 4WD switch wiring. |
| Liberally grease and reinstall shift lever (again, putting the
retain in from below is easier), boot and knob. |
When first starting off in
4WD LO first gear, don't touch the accelerator, just engage the
clutch slowly, then give it gas as you wish. You'll have more than
enough torque at idle to get the vehicle moving with out stalling. |
